Needless to say I didn't see anything that would lead me to believe anything was going to let go. The piece in the middle of the drum is what broke off and shattered. There is not likely any new information here; however, I have tried to compile a short list of tried and true techniques that I have personally had success with. I have had it on the road for a few very short runs still under construction, no glass, lights or paint. How far should I rebuild this thing? You will definitely experience 1-2 tie-up, burned Lo and Reverse Clutches as well as a burned Band.
After taking the transmission out of the car and getting it on the workbench, I opened the shop manual. This can cause major problems in the transmission because the low pressure doesn't clamp the clutches tight enough and they slip. I didn't want to do that so I drilled a hole in a piece of 2x4 instead. The staff has been amazing to work with and takes care of their customers better than any other company I have ever dealt with. Two of his guys came and picked up the transmission. The two halves of the pump.
Keep the internal parts in the order they were removed to keep track of everything. When I tried to put in the reverse and intermediate boost valve I was pushing against the spring. Apparently when the Auxiliary Valve Body was added 1987-1993 , checkball 5 pictured above was removed, and checkball 12 Forward Clutch checkball was added to the Auxiliary Valve Body. Finding one used can be the most economical options, especially if you are going to do all of the work yourself. The first one is gravity.
You should be looking for a 4L60E that is roughly the same year as yours. This restriction results in premature wear of the 3-4 Clutches. But we were always able to influence the shifting by either changing the converter, and valves for higher stall speeds, or with the modulator valve. This shows a lip seal guide and protector I came up with. In a pre-1987 700R4 - 4L60 trans a larger low-reverse boost valve will hold off the auto upshift to 2nd gear while the shifter is in manual 1st gear.
They used an old screwdriver at the bushing parting line and pounded on it with a hammer until the bushing bent and came out. Background: After I had my car for about 20 years it started leaking transmission fluid from the hole in the torque converter cover. Since I was taking my car apart to swap in the newly rebuilt transmission, I decided to replace the front Y pipe because I had a problem with one of the cats getting plugged up. Use the largest external cooler that will fit and not block radiator airflow. Then the lands get hung up in the bore and you can't get the first piece back into the correct position.
A wide angle view photo of the depth micrometer in use. A little trans oil for lubrication and the piston slipped right in. This is done to allow for a less restrictive flow of oil from the second and fourth pistons. The wiring diagram shown is how I wired my car. He even gave me a transmission jack that he no longer needed.
In 1990 the 700R4 was remaned 4L60 to coincide with the new part naming nomenclature. Thread a few bolts into the case starting near the Shifter Detent and working diagonally towards the 1-2 Accumulator. Seen many 700R4 transmission damaged due to someone adjusting the T. There is no leaking coming from the front seals, rear sears or oil pan. Lining up Valve Body Gaskets and Separator Plate — If the dowel pins are not present or have receded into case, use a hand full of the Valve Body bolts to line up the gaskets and plate. I wasn't going to let that happen to me, so I resolved that the car was going to stay up on blocks with the wheels off the ground minimum load on the transmission until the problem was resolved. I brought lots of ropes and we tied the transmission down really well.
The transmission weighs about 150 pounds and I was afraid I might drop it when I moved it from the workbench to the trans jack. Around town, the 2,600-stall converter requires a tad more throttle and about 1,900 rpm to get the car moving from a standstill. The pump-regulator valve is modified to increase flow and is installed with a stiffer pressure-regulator spring. The snap ring is inserted in the bore and then pushed in until it bottoms against the tapered step instead of in the groove where it belongs. Another problem with the snap ring pliers was they wouldn't open far enough to remove some of the snap rings. The only other modification that I had to do is to cut off a section of the case to clear my headers.
Since I was having so much trouble, this called for some tools. I installed the rebuilt transmission in my car and found out I had a big problem. The related update manual is also recommended for further manufacturer upgrades and mid-year modifications, especially for 1987 models as many changes were made this year. My initial thought was to put it in a condiment bottle, but I didn't have one so I put it in this Suave shampoo bottle. I decided to buy a newer pump and just replace the pump, thus fixing the problem. Unfortunately for us, Jeff posted these articles before HowTune existed, so several of the threads are now missing.
That turned out to be a mistake, as it shedded bits of wood constantly. On a slight incline I can take my foot off the brake and the car won't creep forward. It's mounted to one of my tool mounting holes. This is the input drum. Numbers on inside of the bottom section will end with 159. His contributions to the Shop Talk blog are purposed with sharing relevant information based on his own experiences.